For $19.95 per adult, $9.95 per child, a four-cornered feast struts the stuff of Ravago's youth, the foods he learned to cook in his abuela's cocina.

The outcome is exquisite in its simplicity, belying the labor-intensive effort each dish seems to demand. For example, one vegetable salad is marinated in pineapple vinegar for a month before serving, but you'd never know by looking.

everal average-Joe diners I've talked with think the restaurant is, quite simply, overpriced. The issue is: would it be as good with less behind-the-scenes effort? Remember, this isn't simple Tex-Mex.

Bertram's dinner menu emphasizes seafood, filet mignon, and other costly ingredients prepared with elaborate steps. For example, the name alone tells you that tenderloin with Cognac-laurel sauce ($19.95) exudes more flavor than the standard steak on the grill (so do the accompanying garlic-mashed yucca potatoes and grilled nopal cactus). The Veracruz fish stew called arroz a la tumbada ($19.95) came loaded with fresh fish and crustaceans in a rich, roasted-tomato base, and left enough to make a fine lunch the next day, too.

Personally, I think the prices match the quality of food, and the brunch is comparable to other fine local brunches.

So for a few hours once a week, you can thrill to a bounty including stews, salads, finger foods, handmade tortillas, and unbelievable desserts--maybe the best flan in town? Recipes and ingredients are authentic: nopales, achiote squash, tropical fruits; a poblano chile relleno stuffed with creamed cheese without the usual fried batter coating. We especially liked the fresh ceviche and the borracho chicken stew, both of which jumpstarted our tastebuds with several levels of flavor. Actually, it's all worth sampling, and through it all, Chef Miguel is there answering questions...just like a proud papa tending to his baby.

Photography by Robyn Eden